This past spring, Geneva, Switzerland was brimming with watch enthusiasts for the annual Watches and Wonders show. Press and patrons piled into the Palexpo convention center mid-April to witness some of the most beautiful timepieces of the decade. With 65 total exhibiting brands and 11 new names joining the roster, it was one of the largest shows to date, and the watches did not disappoint. This year, the event carried a distinctly more intriguing allure.
Sleek, slender, and smart design stole the show. A shift towards refined elegance was apparent in understated silhouettes, heritage elements, and quality over quantity. Art and storytelling were woven into the value of each watch, creating an environment where shoppers could lean in and listen. After all, who doesn’t want a watch with a captivating history? Although deep blue and green hues widened eyes, the soft and neutral tones reinforced the calming opulence that was practically inescapable. There was no question that collectors left the show stunned, savoring the hidden novelty of the watch world.
Several strong debuts were made by legendary brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, and TAG Heuer. Patek Philippe in particular caught attention for the 50th anniversary of Nautilus, with a limited edition collection reimagined with a sunburst blue dial that was incredibly elegant, setting a new standard in ultra-thin watchmaking. The brand also showcased 20 new models, including highly complicated pieces. Jewelry watches and gemstones had a strong presence this year as well, especially from maisons like Piaget and Bvlgari. There were fewer watches this year overall, but the detailed renditions and high value of luxury items gave the impression that “less is absolutely more.”
Among the newcomers was luxury house Bianchet, who was praised for the sporty elegance and mathematical beauty of the recently-debuted Ultrafino collection. The independent Swiss watchmaker, founded in 2017, is relatively young in the world of watches but by no means playing it small. The brand unveiled UltraFino “Maserati,” a limited edition watch that fuses luxury automotive with technical prowess. Drawing from the speed of the supercar, the watch is equipped with a flying flat tourbillon and trimmed in fresh aqua blue like the Maserati MCPURA. The “Rotondo,” also in the Ultrafino line, has the same skeleton movement like the “Maserati” but includes the option of carbon as well as a titanium bracelet. “Rotondo” boasts a clean bezel and sharp edges, which is perhaps a more elegant and timeless look for Bianchet as the maison rarely plays it safe when it comes to design.
Another newcomer to the show this year was Audemars Piguet. The brand holds over 150 years in the watch business and deserves excellent recognition as such. The seasoned brand stole attention with the Royal Oak collection due to its intelligent use of high-horology and impressive material. Two options in the collection include the “Mini Quartz” watch—a 23mm well-suited for petite wrists—crafted of 18-karat pink gold with a black onyx dial and the “Self Winding” watch, ornamented in 18-karat yellow gold complete with a brilliant green malachite dial. Another notable mention is the “Jumping Hour” in the Neo Frame collection. Inspired by Art Deco watchmaking from the mid-1600s, the numbers leap every hour and the minutes drag instead of using continuous hands. It’s a modern take on a wrist watch, exuding history and charm much like the brand itself.
L’Epée 1839 is perhaps best known for its heritage, revered all the way back to the date in its name. Although the brand began in 1839 selling carriage clocks (portable pieces to keep time on long journeys), L’Epée is best known today for creating complex table clocks. Near the center of the booth stood the La Regatta Métiers d’Art collection. In all its grandeur, the set was presented as statement art rather than traditional clocks—a surprising twist. La Regatta Métiers d’Art was inspired by a racing skiff gliding across water. In the name of competitive rowing, each clock was unique, crafted with remarkable “Grand Feu” enameling work and burned in a kiln at high temperatures. Not only did the display reinforce the emotional rhythm of rowing, it told a compelling narrative that bonded the collector to the piece for years to come.
Sinn Spezialuhren, another first-timer to Watches and Wonders, is a brilliant German designer who had its beginnings in the early 1960s. The brand is best known for highly-technical pilot and diver watches that are engineered for the elements. The “308 Hunting Watch,” crafted of smooth stainless steel, has functionality and style unlike anything else in its class. This version includes not only anti-fog mode but an exceptional moonlight display that indicates peak brightness each evening. Also in a stainless steel bracelet with a green dial, the “903 ST II G” is perhaps a less clean and minimal option from the brand, but it is legible in the dark and is a classic navigation chronograph that functions like a stop watch. The “936 S” is a chronograph as well but the case features a scratch-resistant duo of stainless steel and titanium for ultimate durability. Visually speaking, this version has the most luxe design, making it well suited for city dwellers and outdoorsy types alike.
IWC Schaffhausen is arguably one of the most respected leaders in luxury watchmaking for many reasons—mainly its intelligent Swiss engineering. Back in 1985, the brand was the first to create a synchronized perpetual calendar operated by a single crown. Today, nearly 41 years later, the brand has a single-crown perpetual calendar, but it also moves backwards and forwards. IWC’s “Perpetual Calendar Proset” cultivated attention at the show for its ability to reverse time, all the way back to the year 2000. The “Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive” retains the same futuristic element yet includes space travel in an exceptionally unique watch. Accented with the same deep blue gradient as the “Proset,” it has a rotating bezel without a crown allowing all adjustments to be made while wearing a space suit. Not only is it technically sound, it’s beautifully finished in sapphire glass and white rubber for a refined yet sport-forward aesthetic.
Two more returning watch brands include Patek Philippe and Bvlgari. Both have created exceptional reputations in high horology and kept this achievement going throughout the show. Patek Philippe was a clear stand out among attendees for new releases in the Complications and Grand Complications collections, like the “Celestial” watch, which features a sunrise and sunset indicator to sync with the sun and moon phases and “The Crow And The Fox” watch, a storybook rendition of La Fontaine’s book. Designed by Louis Cottier in 1958, the brilliant automation includes the fox moving a paw or jaw with each tick. This wristwatch is a historical delight with an eclectic twist, finished in a rose gold case and a brown “Matara” dial.
Bvlgari was dripping in decadence, as per usual. The powerhouse brand blended history and fashion with notoriously-thin watchmaking. The “Maglia Milanese Monete” includes a hidden Roman coin in beautiful rose gold on a mesh bracelet. This style is similar to its predecessor “Monete Catene” which includes the same coin yet sparkles a little more boldly with a dual curb chain bracelet. “Tubogas Manchette,” an eighties-inspired watch, boasts a brilliant yellow gold wrapping cuff adorned in gemstones. With almost 12 carats of diamonds, you almost forget it includes a petite circular watch dial, which gives this glamorous piece a fresh dose of functionality.
There’s no doubt in our minds that these collector’s items will be heirlooms for many years to come. The ability to move time is not only praised for its high innovation but it’s also quite remarkable—we now hold the power in our fingertips to shift time. The emotional effect of these watches was undeniable, given the narratives and stories created around them. The unique identity that these watches elicit brings a sense of free-spiritedness and adventure. It serves as a reminder that elite watchmaking and easeful wearability can live together harmoniously.
