It’s awe-inspiring to stand in the presence of creatives who share interests. With the art of fine jewelry, it’s most fascinating when skill sets and perspectives form interpretations that are unique in their own right. It’s in the mystery of these interpretations that the sheer magnitude of jewelry’s significance comes to light.
The 2024 COUTURE Show, a world-renowned trade show introducing the best in fine jewelry and timepieces, was an event where designers shared this intriguing concept. Making their debut at the Wynn Las Vegas, curators opened the doors and left attendees eager for more. After the event came to a close, there were plenty of nuances to continue dreaming about —not only the beautiful craftsmanship or the aesthetically pleasing display, but the shades of meaning around the future of our jewelry world. Most importantly, what trends are capturing our hearts?
Whether it was swooning over the design atelier, making meaningful conversation with creators, or sharing anecdotes, it all contributed to the grandeur of the experience. Attendees remarked that there was something cathartic about Cafe Noir, a modern botanical pop-up lounge in the center of the show where they’d savor a refreshment and relish in the moment. To wrap up the event, the red carpet-inspired awards ceremony twinkled with a similar luster as the Golden Globes, bringing together only the most notable names in the industry while embracing a creative’s shared love for exceptional design.
Perhaps the biggest takeaway from the show was this: What do the stars have in store? An arbitrary concept to some, the allure of astronomy, astrology, and the zodiac is greater than we often give it credit for. The celestial spirit sends a glimmer of hope to idealistic personalities who are seeking something beyond themselves. Experts say, the act of wearing a trinket as a symbol of our universe can have a profound impact on one’s life, even if it just serves as a gentle reminder that there’s a great deal more out there than our mind can comprehend.
“Astronomy is one of the most enduring jewelry trends. Humans have always been entranced by the heavens above, and diamonds are a perfect métier for rendering the beauty of the stars and planets,” said attendee Kristen Shirley, luxury goods expert and founder of La Patiala, a digital destination that covers all things high-end.
Absorbed in the trade show space for nearly a decade, Shirley has attended more than 20 fine jewelry shows globally. It comes as no surprise then that she has various informed remarks about the show’s key themes and trends, so we picked her brain on what intrigued her most.
Her favorite trend on the horizon may come as a bit of a surprise, acting as a stark contrast to previous highlights of dainty chains and micro mini hoops. Colossal jewelry has been gaining momentum in recent months, including tantalizing collars and torque necklaces. “This trend started a couple of years ago but is getting bigger (literally) every year,” Shirley said. Experts surmise understated fashion will complement the chunky jewels best, which begs the question, is oversized here to stay?
The second stand-out trend had less to do with taking up space and more to do with striking hues. “Color is everywhere,” Shirley said. She remarked that these kinds of colors can’t be ignored, especially when paired with massive proportions. Designers are taking a similarly bold approach but with vibrantly-toned enamel, or hard stones like lapis, turquoise, malachite, and brightly hued gemstones like rubies, emeralds, and opals.
As far as new brands to keep an eye out for, Shirley noted State Property and Marie Lichtenberg are gaining notoriety, and for good reason. In its usual art deco motif, State Property’s ‘Garden’ collection celebrates the intricacies of Spanish architecture while Marie Lichtenberg combines spiritual heritage with unending adoration, evident in her tiered chains spelling out the familiar phrase: All you need is love.
In addition, Shirley confirmed the appeal of astrology at this year’s show, and how it’s taking shape in starry pendants, planets, and other subtle celestial ways. Namely, the zodiac signs and birthstones. Harwell Godfrey, Temple St. Clair, and Sorellina are some of her personal favorite brands in the astrology space right now, acknowledging their universal themes are less obvious, but still increasingly captivating. Take Godfrey’s bejeweled watch for instance – it’s everything but a traditional timepiece, sprinkled with diamonds that give a nod to numerology and the angels.
Jewelry designers have crafted custom astrology pieces in other unique ways, mimicking constellations or geographic coordinates and recreating the sky above at a special moment. “Shoppers are more inclined to keep pieces with personal significance, not just if a gemstone signifies something generic like clarity or strength,” Shirley said.
According to astrologists, each zodiac sign is ruled by planets which impact a person’s astrology chart. Based on birth date and time, astrologers can draw conclusions about personality and foretell life events. Birthstones, in contrast, are simply colorful gemstones that correlate with one’s birth month. For example, the birthstone for January is garnet which represents love, friendship, protection, and vitality.
Last year, experts made predictions for 2024, stating a perceived influx of creativity and self-expression through the use of zodiac and birthstone jewelry. Now we can say, they were right. And this doesn’t mean that to wear them you have to be well-versed in astrological terminology either. The sheer appreciation of its beauty and the desire to hold a deeper meaning with your jewelry through personalization are reason enough for anyone to hold this trend close.
Emily Villavaso, Scottsdale yoga instructor and astrology researcher, shared her informed opinion on why we may be seeing an increase in astrological trends. “I think people’s minds are opening to the spiritual side in all of us; it’s a rise in consciousness. People who were once completely shut off from it feel safer to explore.”
She continued, wearing jewelry that represents astrology helps us feel more in tune to ourselves and those around us, acting as a symbol of our passions and interests. “It’s the same with religion or community –we want to feel connected, and showing what we believe in calls the energies towards us that we desire,” Villavaso said.
Jewelry shoppers, like astrologists, are lured by the excitement of the unknown. The uncharted territory of our universe can be perceived as a guide to some or a compelling mystery to others; but either way, there’s a tangible quality centered in the stars. And whether it’s glistening diamonds that mimic a starry night sky or a personalized birthstone on a cable chain, jewelry shows us that we are continually evolving and wanting more than ever before.